Frequently Asked Questions
Budget & Process
How much does a major home remodel cost, and what affects the price per square foot?
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The honest answer: square footage is one of the least reliable ways to estimate a remodel. What actually drives cost is the decisions made — the materials selected, the extent of structural changes, what gets uncovered once walls open up, and the finish level you're aiming for. Two kitchens of identical square footage can have wildly different price tags depending on those choices.
That said, here are realistic ranges for the Madison, WI market as a starting reference:
Project Type Typical Range (Madison, WI)
Kitchen remodel (mid-range) $30,000 – $60,000
Kitchen remodel (full gut/custom) $60,000 – $150,000+
Bathroom remodel $15,000 – $45,000
Main bath overhaul $35,000 – $75,000+
Basement finishing $30,000 – $65,000
Deck or outdoor living $20,000 – $60,000+
Home addition $150,000+
The single biggest driver of estimate accuracy is how much a homeowner has thought through their project before we sit down. The more decisions made upfront, materials, layout changes, fixture selections, must-haves versus nice-to-haves, the more accurate the number I can put in front of you. That's exactly what the free consultation is for: not to sell you something, but to turn a rough idea into a real plan with a real number attached.
How do your payment milestones work, and when will I owe money during the project?
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Payment milestones at Build It With Charlie are tied to project progress, not to arbitrary calendar dates or great upfront demands. You pay for work that has been completed, not work that hasn't started yet.
The structure is straightforward: a deposit at contract signing to secure your project slot and begin material procurement, followed by milestone payments tied to defined phases of the work as each phase is completed and verified, and a final payment at project completion. Every payment amount and trigger point is written into the contract before work begins; the payment schedule isn't something we figure out as we go.
One thing I won't do is ask for a large portion of the total upfront before any work has started. That's a common red flag in contractor billing. Your money stays tied to progress.
How do you protect my project from sudden increases in material costs after we sign?
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Once your contract is signed, your material costs are locked. Build It With Charlie uses fixed-price contracts with allowances for specialty items, and every agreement includes a 10% contingency buffer built in for unforeseen circumstances, so there's real protection before any cost conversation ever needs to happen.
If material prices take a significant hit after signing, that's always a transparent discussion with the homeowner, documented through a formal change order. No surprise invoices, no unilateral adjustments.
In practice, I take it a step further. When there's any real risk of supply disruption or price volatility, I order materials on the day of contract signing, not when the project starts. During the COVID-19 lumber shortage, I did exactly that for three active projects: secured materials the day we signed, so they were on site when the crew arrived, at the contracted price. That's not just good planning; that's the PMP approach applied to your home.
The best protection against overruns starts before the contract: a thorough scope of work, detailed specifications, and a homeowner who has thought through their must-haves versus nice-to-haves. The more decisions made upfront, the less room for surprises downstream.
How do you handle unexpected problems or change orders once work is underway?
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Unexpected conditions are part of remodeling, opening a wall in a 1960s home, and you may find plumbing that doesn't match the plan, insulation that needs replacing, or framing that needs attention before anything else can happen. This isn't a failure of planning; it's the nature of working on existing structures. What matters is how it gets handled.
At Build It With Charlie, unexpected conditions get documented immediately and communicated to you directly, before any additional work is done. You'll see what was found, what it means for the project, and what it costs to address it. That's a change order: written, priced, and signed before it becomes work.
No one calls you after the fact with a surprise addition to the invoice. If something comes up, we stop, we talk, and you decide how to proceed. That's not courtesy, that's the process, every time.
The upfront investment in a detailed scope of work is the best defense against change orders. The more thoroughly we've defined the project before breaking ground, the fewer surprises show up mid-construction.
Working With Charlie
What does a PMP-certified contractor do differently, and why does it matter for my project?
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The PMP, Project Management Professional, is the gold standard credential in professional project management. It's the same certification held by construction program managers, aerospace engineers, and Fortune 500 project leads. Fewer than 1% of residential remodeling contractors hold it.
In practice, here's what it means for your project:
A defined scope before any work begins. Every project starts with a written scope of work that both parties understand and agree to. This isn't a vague estimate; it's a documented plan that drives the budget, the schedule, and every decision downstream.
A real schedule, tracked. Projects have phases. Each phase has a start date, a completion target, and dependencies. When something changes, a material delay, an unforeseen condition behind a wall, the schedule gets updated, and you get notified. During, not after.
A formal change order process. When scope changes, it's documented. You see the cost and time impact before the additional work happens, not on the final invoice.
Proactive communication. You don't have to chase me down to find out what's happening. Progress updates are part of the process, not a favor.
Most contractors are skilled at the trade. Fewer are skilled at running the project. The PMP credential means you get both from the same person, someone who has built things with his hands for nearly 20 years and holds the credential that construction program managers use to manage nine-figure budgets.
Do I need an architect before calling you, or do you handle design coordination?
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It depends on what you're building, and the answer is often simpler than homeowners expect.
For most remodeling projects, kitchens, bathrooms, basement finishes, and decks, you don't need an architect before calling me. I can handle design coordination, help you think through layout and material decisions, and manage the full project from planning through completion. An architect isn't part of that process.
For projects that involve structural changes to the home, additions, or anything requiring engineered drawings for permit submission, an architect or structural engineer may be required. In those cases, I can help you understand what's actually needed. Many homeowners are told they need full architectural services when a structural engineer's stamp is all the permit office requires. I'll refer you to the right professional for that scope.
Call first. We'll work out together what the project actually needs before you spend money.
Can I supply my own fixtures and finishes to save money?
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In most cases, yes, with clear caveats I'm upfront about from the start.
For fixtures, tile, hardware, and decorative finishes, you can source those yourself if you have the time to research and compare. Just understand the risk: if a homeowner-supplied item arrives damaged, incorrect, or delayed and it holds up the work, we charge for our time at the hourly rate specified in the contract. Your schedule disruption becomes a real project’s cost.
Appliances are always the homeowner's territory. I'm happy to provide referrals and make sure we have accurate measurements and the right rough-in specs, but I'm not part of the buying process beyond ensuring whatever you choose fits the design.
Cabinetry is the one category I don't allow homeowners to source independently. A cabinet ordering error, wrong dimensions, wrong door swing, or missing components can derail an entire kitchen timeline. The margin for error is small; the consequences to the project aren't. This is where my supplier relationships and ordering process protect you.
My honest take: You can save money sourcing your own materials, but the risk rarely outweighs the reward. I know where to get the right materials at the right price, delivered when the project needs them. That experience is harder to put a number on than a catalog discount, but it's real.
The Project Process
Can I live in my home during the renovation, or will I need to move out?
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Whether you can stay in the home depends almost entirely on which part of the house is being worked on and for how long.
Basement renovations, deck builds, and outdoor projects: Minimal disruption to daily life. Most families don't think twice about staying.
Bathroom renovations: If you have more than one bathroom, staying is usually fine. Single-bathroom homes are harder; a renovation that runs more than a week makes things uncomfortable. We plan sequencing around this, where possible.
Kitchen remodels: This is the hardest one. A gut renovation, demo through cabinet install through finish work, can run four to eight weeks or more. Some families manage with a temporary kitchen setup (a folding table, microwave, and coffee maker carry further than you'd think). Others are more comfortable in a short-term rental or with family for part of the project. We talk through this during planning, so it's not a surprise when demo day arrives.
Home additions: Construction typically happens in a zone separate from the living space. Most families stay without significant disruption.
The honest answer is always project-specific, and I'll tell you what to expect before you sign, and during the project kickoff meeting, not after the project starts.
Permitting timelines in Madison, WI typically run one to four weeks, depending on scope. A straightforward bathroom renovation or deck replacement can come back in just a few days. Projects involving structural changes, additions, or work requiring architectural drawings take longer. Plan for the higher end of that range, and we'll build it into your project schedule accordingly.
As the contractor, I pull all required permits. That's not something you need to track down, follow up on, or coordinate. I handle the submission, work directly with the City of Madison Building Inspection department, and schedule the required inspections at each phase of construction.
One important note: permits aren't bureaucratic friction; they're your protection. A permitted project has documented inspections at every critical stage of construction. That record protects your investment, matters when you sell the home, and ensures the work was done to code. Any contractor who suggests skipping permits to save time or money is handing you a liability that follows the house, not them.
Managing the permit and inspection schedule is a standard part of the project management process at Build It With Charlie, not an add-on.
How long does the permitting process take, and who deals with the municipality?
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What energy-efficient choices can I make during a remodel that actually pay off?
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The most impactful energy-efficient decisions during a remodel aren't solar panels or expensive system overhauls; they're the unglamorous choices made while walls are already open and materials are already being replaced.
Insulation: If you're finishing a basement, adding to an exterior wall, or doing any work that exposes the building envelope, upgrading insulation at that moment costs a fraction of what it costs to do it later. Spray foam at rim joists during a basement renovation is one of the best dollar-for-dollar upgrades available, invisible when finished, real impact on energy bills year-round.
Air sealing: Done during any wall or attic work, air sealing addresses the drafts and thermal loss that happen at penetrations and gaps, not just through the insulation itself. It requires almost no additional time or material during an active renovation.
This is also the right moment to talk about Ventilation, something most homeowners don't think about until there's a problem. A well-sealed house is more energy efficient, but it needs a deliberate way to breathe. That's where ERVs and HRVs come in. An ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) brings fresh air into the house while transferring heat and moisture from the outgoing air, keeping the home consistently comfortable and properly humidified year-round without throwing away the energy you paid to condition. In humid climates, an ERV is typically the right choice; in colder, drier climates, an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) is often preferred. The difference matters, and it's worth getting right during the renovation rather than retrofitting it later.
Most people underestimate how much indoor air quality affects how a home feels to live in. A tight, well-ventilated house isn't just efficient, it's noticeably more comfortable than one that leaks and drafts its way through the seasons.
Fixtures and water: Low-flow fixtures in a bathroom remodel, LED lighting throughout, and Energy Star-rated appliances in a kitchen remodel are standard choices at this point. Payback periods are short, and they add nothing to project complexity.
Windows and doors: If a project already involves exterior work near an opening, it can be an efficient moment to upgrade. As a standalone project, window replacement rarely pays back as quickly as people expect. It's worth a conversation before you commit.
The pattern is consistent: the best time to make an energy-efficient upgrade is when you're already doing related work. I'll flag those opportunities during the planning phase so you can make an informed decision, not an expensive one.
How can I future-proof my home for aging-in-place or changing family needs?
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The decisions that make a home work for the long term are easiest and least expensive to make during a renovation, not after. Widening a doorway or blocking a wall for future grab bars is a straightforward conversation during a bathroom remodel. Doing it five years later means reopening finished walls.
Bathroom remodels: Curbless shower entry, reinforced blocking behind the tile for future grab bar installation, comfort-height toilet, non-slip tile selection, and a wider door opening if the layout allows. None of these choices looks institutional; they look like a well-designed bathroom.
Kitchen remodels: Pull-out shelving at base cabinets, lever-style hardware (significantly easier than knobs for reduced grip strength), and thoughtful counter height if the layout is being fully redesigned.
Home additions: If the addition allows for a main-floor primary suite or main-floor laundry, that's one of the highest-value aging-in-place decisions a homeowner can make. It preserves the option to live entirely on one floor without a future renovation to create it.
Throughout: Wider doorways, 36 inches, accommodate walkers and wheelchairs without looking like a medical facility. Most homeowners who spec them during an active remodel never think about them again until the day they matter.
You don't have to be planning for a specific need today for these choices to make sense. They cost very little when made during an active renovation and add meaningful long-term value to the home, both for you and for future buyers.
What kind of warranty do you provide, and what happens if something needs attention after you're done?
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Build It With Charlie provides a 3-year workmanship warranty on all completed work. If something we built, installed, or finished has a problem that traces back to our work, we come back and we fix it. That's the baseline, no runaround.
On homeowner-supplied items: if something arrives new and we install it, the installation is covered under our workmanship warranty. If an item shows up damaged or the quality looks questionable before it goes in, we'll flag it or respectfully decline to install it. We won't put our name on work we can't stand behind.
Manufacturer warranties on products, fixtures, appliances, and materials are separate from our workmanship warranty and are handled directly between you and the manufacturer.
One practical note: the best warranty is a project that doesn't need one. That starts with a thorough scope of work, quality materials, and permitted, inspected construction at every phase. The permit and inspection record isn't paperwork; it's documentation that the work was done correctly, and it follows the home.
If you have a concern after we've wrapped up, contact us directly. Post-project calls don't get ignored